Evans Outdoor Adventures

Idaho’s Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness: Diablo Lookout, July 2013

360 degree views of the Bitterroot Divide from this lookout along the Idaho-Montana border

Distance: 11.5 miles round trip

Type: out and back

Difficulty: moderately difficult with 1,700′ elevation gain

Best season: July – October

I’m a sucker for lookouts. Who isn’t—their views are stunning. Diablo Lookout along the Idaho-Montana border had been on our radar for a few years. In 2010 we hiked the first 2.5 miles of trail during a scouting trip for our Grave Peak Lookout hike. The Elk Summit area impressed us with its meadows, lakes, streams, wildlife, and rugged terrain.

Our nephew hiked to Diablo in early July 2013 and reported quite a bit of lingering snow. By the end of July, we figured we should have clear trails. The trip up US-12 to Lochsa Lodge took a little over three hours and from there it was another hour up to Hoodoo Lake. The road wasn’t quite as rocky as I remembered, but it was more wash board. Condition of this single lane road can vary greatly from year to year, but in our experience it should be passable to carefully driven passenger cars. In the upper stretches, the Forest Service road passes several lovely creeks and through a burn area.

The road dead ends at Elk Summit Recreation Area on the edge of the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. This is a lovely area with meandering stream, lush meadows, beautiful Hoodoo Lake, historic Elk Summit Guard Station, a nice campground, and numerous backcountry trailheads.

Hoodoo Creek

We entered C loop of Hoodoo Lake Campground and found a lovely little campsite. It didn’t have a view of the lake like some sites, but it was private and within close walking distance to the lake. As we got to work setting up camp, we were immediately swarmed by mosquitoes and biting flies. This was our fourth trip to the area and we were convinced every flying insect at Elk Summit bites or stings. The flies were especially relentless. They looked like ordinary small house flies, but they packed quite the painful little bite. We hit the bug spray hard all weekend, but to no avail—we were both covered in bites by the end of the trip.

Hoodoo Lake

That evening, camp was illuminated by a full moon. At 4:30 the following morning we awoke to the sound of wolves howling. As often as we are in the Idaho wilderness, we don’t often hear that haunting sound. During breakfast, three large bucks strolled into our camp. They seemed unconcerned by our presence and proceeded to feed within yards of us. Elk Summit was putting on quite the show.

After packing up camp, we drove the short distance to Big Sand Lake trailhead located next to Elk Summit Guard Station. We were on the trail by 7:00 which made us happy given the warm forecast. There were only two other cars parked at the trailhead, likely backpackers to Big Sand Lake. Odds were good we wouldn’t see anyone on the trail. 

Elk Summit Guard Station

Horse Creek

The first mile of trail was enjoyable as the trail mildly rose and fell through the lush green forest.

This trip was too late for wildflowers, but the lower trail had awed us with an explosion of color during our previous visits.

About a mile in, we saw our first burned areas—a change from our first visit.  A large fire had moved through the previous summer, scorching much of the area.  Sections of trail were still lush and green, but much had burned, adding to the feel of Diablo.

The lower section of trail through Horse Heaven Meadows was relocated in 1995, no doubt to protect the fragile area. The new route passed across a low hillside providing occasional glimpses down into the meadows.

At almost three miles in we came to a well-signed trail junction. Big Sand Lake trail continued straight ahead while we turned to the right onto Diablo Lookout trail. Shortly after this split, the trail began to climb in earnest and we were treated to views down into Horse Heaven Meadows and over to Grave Peak Lookout where we outran a forest fire a couple years before.

Grave Peak Lookout stands atop the pyramid looking point in the middle

It was about a two and half mile climb to the lookout. As we continued to climb, the views got better and better.

Goat Heaven Lakes off in the distance

As we topped out and approached Diablo Lookout, we were surprised to find it manned by an older gentleman and his dog. He greeted us with a wave and “Welcome to Diablo, come on up!”  What a fantastic treat! Lookouts in our area are usually unmanned and locked up.

Diablo Lookout, elevation 7,461′.  Built in 1965 to replace a gable roof L-4 lookout that was built in 1926.  Powell Ranger District, Clearwater National Forest, Idaho.

We climbed up into Diablo and were treated to 360 degree views of the Bitterroot Divide. Bill Moore answered our questions about the area and lookout. He is a Forest Service volunteer who organizes volunteers for the lookout. It was only their second year manning the lookout, but so far it had been a success.

As I snapped off photo after photo of the panoramic views, Bill told Jason about growing up traveling the forest with his dad, a Forest Service ranger. Something clicked in my head. “Your dad isn’t Bud Moore, is he?” I’m not sure if Bill’s look was from surprise or being impressed, but he gave me quite the look and answered, “yes, he is.”  Bud was the author of one of my favorite local history books, The Lochsa Story which chronicles the history of the Selway-Bitterroot region and is a fascinating read. How very special—Bill keeping watch over the very wilderness his dad had trapped as a youth during the depression.

Diablo Lookout views

We had an enjoyable hike back. As suspected, we didn’t see anyone on the trail all day. From the trailhead we made the drive down to Lochsa Lodge where we stopped for an early dinner. The lodge is a favorite of ours, especially in the summer when they have their Sunday bbq special. Yum!

Directions to Big Sand Lake trailhead: from the town of Lolo, Montana drive west on US 12 for 42.8 miles. From Lowell, Idaho drive east on US 12 for 67 miles. Turn south on Elk Summit Road. Follow this two lane, very washboard road to the signed intersection with Forest Road 360. Turn right and follow this single lane road 18.9 miles to the Elk Summit Recreation Area. The trailhead is located next to the Elk Summit Guard Station next to loop A of the campground. There is ample parking and a privy at the trailhead.  

12 thoughts on “Idaho’s Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness: Diablo Lookout, July 2013

  1. J. S.

    Awesome! My husband Grandfather used to man the diablo lookout and was a forest ranger: Lloyd Stewart. We plan to hike up this summer 2018 to view the look out tower that he spent time in. Thanks for all of the great information.

    1. Lusha Post author

      Hello J.S.,

      Thanks for your comment. I was interested to read of your husband’s family connection. How wonderful that you will get to see it in person. Standing in the lookout, I have no doubt that it will feel like a very special place to both of you.

      Happy trails!
      Lusha

  2. Richard Hulquist

    I was looking at a satellite map of the area and pulled this up to See when it burned last. Thank you for this artical. The last time I was there was 1958. Diablo peak is one of my great memories.

  3. Cyndi Rilea (Pfau)

    I was the lookout there in 1976 & 77. It is such a beautiful place. The spring for water is a mile down the trail from the tower.

  4. Frank Krosnicki

    Lusha, thank you for bringing back memories that I cherish. Until just a few years ago, I was a host at the Elk summit Guard Station for 3 weeks every year for about 8 years. I had to give it up due to some personal family matters.

    I did volunteer duty at the Diablo Tower for a week, one year, but my skill level was nil at being a fire spotter, so in the interest of preserving the forest, I gave that up!. (I panicked with each lightning strike, not knowing for sure what to report). As my wife has contended for years, I am directionally challenged so did not make a good fit for the job!) Bill Moore is a great guy and does so much volunteer work throughout the forest. I miss the people at the Forest Service as well as the people I met on trails and at the Guard Station.

    I recognize the areas in each picture that you presented and have hiked a lot of that area. Thanks for posting the pics and the narratives.

    1. Lusha Post author

      Frank,
      Thank you for visiting and sharing your experiences with us. It is comments like yours that make all the effort of these blog posts worth it! Elk Summit and Diablo are such special places- made even more so by people like you. Thank you for your time spent serving the area and people like us! I can only imagine all the wildlife you saw at Elk Summit…and the mosquitoes, man they’ve been fierce every time we’ve visited! We’d very much like to follow in your footsteps and spend time volunteering someplace like Diablo or Elk Summit here in a few years. Any tips would be much appreciated 🙂
      Happy trails,
      Lusha

  5. Aaron w

    I fought a few fires around Elk Summit before the wolf introduction in the early 90’s. Back then there were a lot of moose or should I say an abundance and lots of elk as well. Presently, the wildlife is nothing like it used to be pre-wolf introduction. It was a real spectacular sight to see so much wildlife and I’m blessed to have seen it and the difference between present and pre-wolf introduction.

    If it were up to me those canids would never been reintroduced.

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